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Walks of Ancient Britain

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Daisy Strewn North Downs Way Near Detling, Kent.

The chalk ridges of southern Britain once carried long distance trade routes used by the region's ancient people. Tracks linked huge earthwork enclosures built at various points on the southern hills. These gathering points, some as unbelievably elaborate as Stonehenge, became stations on a growing network of highways. The chalk ridges offered easy passage above thick woods and rivers of the low lands. It is tempting to call the routes "highways", not to make false analogies with the present, but because the "paths" were frequently wide strips of land running for hundreds of miles along the escarpments. As Norman Davis says in his book The Isles: "A traveller could stride for days along the daisy-strewn ridges without ever having to cross a stream or ford a river." Woodland was much more widespread, but clearing continued constantly, and the keeping of sheep prevented the spread of scrub. In many places the route is as wide as the M25, as seen in the picture above; but the M25 isn't covered in daises. In some places ancient paths were more clearly defined, particularly on the customary routes down from the ridges to lower levels. Sometimes very long established paths can be identified by a route where footsteps over thousands of years have worn a passage into soft chalk. These paths are known as holloways. The holloway in the picture below leads from the North Downs Way down towards Detling in Kent. The marked depression of the path has been worn by tramping feet over thousands of years.

 

 

Holloway near Detling, Kent

As well as being dry, the ridge way routes were easy to navigate in an age before maps and compasses. As walking historians Nicholas Rudd-Jones and David Stewart point out: "a series of ridgeways would have been easy enough to follow, in much the same way as coastlines guided seafarers... Just as the intrepid Victorian explorers of Africa were mostly drawn from the Royal Navy, so perhaps the first long distance users of the ridgeways were seafarers extending their trading routes using methods of navigation with which they were already familiar" (Pathways P13-14). The ridge ways after all run to the coast, the North Downs Way to Dover, the South Downs Way to Eastbourne. The grandest path of all, the Ridgeway, originally ran from the Dorset coast, and extended to the Wash in Norfolk. And interestingly it was in Dorset at Hengistbury Head that what is often considered to be Britain's first town was established. Hengistbury Head was a trading settlement, and it may have been from here that people began to use chalk ridgeways to move inland.

 

 

 

 

 

 

North Downs Way at Box Hill, Surrey

The North Downs Way is 246km long and starts near Farnham town centre in Surrey. The route follows sandy paths to Guildford and then climbs up onto the chalk at Newlands Corner Country Park. A beautiful walk, which for the most part follows the top of the Downs, divides near Ashford, with end points at Canterbury, or at the white cliffs of Dover. The path can be followed easily without using a map or guide book - remember that ancient advantage of ridgeways being easy to follow in an age before maps. But modern travellers have the added help of 4,500 aids set at path junctions. A guide book would also add to your enjoyment and would also split the walk into manageable sections. North Downs Way National Trail Guide by Neil Curtis and Jim Walker (Aurum Press) is recommended. There are many places to stay along the route, including fifty two hotels and over one hundred Bed and Breakfast places. There are about two hundred and eighty pubs available to visit, and places of interest include eight castles, three cathedrals, and six stately homes. Cyclists please note that nearly half the route is for use only by walkers. Bridleways, where bikes are permitted, do not continue for long sections at a time. For short walks along the North Downs Way, Box Hill just north of Dorking in Surrey provides a convenient starting point. There is a large National Trust car park here, with refreshment facilities and a shop. Leaflets are provided which give details of self guided walks of different lengths, and with different themes.

 

 

The South Downs Way begins at Winchester and is 161km long. Winchester was the home of King Alfred, King of Wessex who began the process of bringing warring factions together into a country that would eventually be called England. It is worth spending some time in Winchester before starting the walk. The path in this area is patchy at times, and bikes are not allowed on some of it. The path then follows open downland, taking you past a hill fort at Beacon Hill, and ancient burial mounds above Heyshot. Continuing on across the Downs there are attractive villages at the foot of the hills: Amberley would be a nice place to visit, with its thatched cottages, two pubs and a shop. Perhaps the most attractive part of the walk is the final section. The trail splits into two, a footpath following the cliffs of the Seven Sisters and Beachy Head, while a bridleway, slightly in-land, passes the ancient carving of the Long Man of Wilmington. Personally I love the coast path with its wonderful views of the Downs, and of chalk cliffs which to many people define England. It is sometimes suggested that Albion, the old name for Britain, derives from the white colour of these cliffs.

The South Downs Way at Beachy Head

Water points are available at intervals along the route, but bear in mind that for long distances food and water are only to be had at the Down's foot villages. It is important to carry sufficient water. A litre per person would be wise. In winter prepare for cold as the area is exposed, and in summer take a hat and sun cream as there are sections where there won't be any shade.

Most of the route is open to walkers, cyclists and horse riders. Cyclists are asked not to approach a horse without warning from behind. A friendly shout will warn the rider that you are approaching.

The South Downs Way National Trail Guide by Paul Millmore is published by Aurum Press.

 

 

The Ridgeway is 137km long, and for extended sections follows an ancient route along the North Wessex Downs and the Chilterns. It is sometimes referred to as "Britain's Oldest Road". This route originally ran over 400km from the Dorset coast to the Wash on the Norfolk coast. The Ridgeway begins near Avebury, which is one of the richest archeological sites in Britain. Within 2km of the start of the walk you can find Avebury Stone Circle, West Kennet Long Barrow, the Sanctuary, the Stone Avenue, and Silbury Hill, the biggest man made mound in Europe.

Silbury Hill, near the start of the Ridgeway.

As the walk starts it passes barrows, and iron age forts. At Uffington you will see the Uffington White Horse carved onto the chalk hillside.

Between Streatley and Chinor the route passes Grim's Ditch, which accompanies the path for several kilometers. Like Silbury Hill this huge earthwork was constructed with nothing but antler picks and oxen shoulder blade shovels.

The last section from Chinor to Ivinghoe Beacon passes more sections of Grim's Ditch, and more long barrows. The most obvious barrow can be seen close to the last long slope up to Ivinghoe Beacon. At the top of Ivinghoe Beacon itself there is an iron age fort.

There are many places to stay along the route. The Ridgeway National Trail Guide by Neil Curtis (Aurum Books) is available from the National Trails Office, or from Amazon. The National Trails Office can also supply a free public transport guide to get you to the Ridgeway. Go to http://www.nationaltrail.co.uk/