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Uppark, West Sussex

Uppark is a late seventeenth century house on the South Downs. It was built around 1690 by Ford Grey, a shady character who was charged with treason for supporting the Monmouth rebellion against James the Second. He survived, and was made Earl of Tankerville by William of Orange, once James the Second had finally been deposed. In 1747 the house was sold to the Featherstonehaugh's. This wealthy family filled the property with treasures gathered on their travels, and hired Humphrey Repton to improve both the house and gardens.

Ironically, however, Uppark's main claim to fame lies not with the rich aristocrats who lived here, but with Sarah Wells, the mother of writer H.G. Wells, who worked as a housekeeper at Uppark from 1880 until 1893. She took this work to provide an income for her family, after her husband Joseph Wells broke his leg and could no longer work as a professional cricketer. Sarah's clever young son Herbert was forced to leave school and go into a series of menial jobs, a situation he bitterly resented. Sometimes he would visit his mother at Uppark, and wander round the estate. He was free to use the library, and embarked on his relentless programme of self education here. Uppark was important in forming Wells' political views. He seemed to love the beauty of Uppark, but felt deeply resentful that it was reserved for so few.

 

Uppark appears as Bladesover in Wells' novel Tonio Bungay. More interestingly details of life at Uppark are reflected in perhaps his best book, The Time Machine. At Uppark the fortunate aristocracy lived above ground in the beautiful house. The servants, Sarah Wells amongst them, had quarters below ground. This situation is reflected in the world of The Time Machine where the aristocracy have evolved into the gentle, child-like indolent Eloi, who live above ground in a park. The servants meanwhile have evolved into light hating Morlocks who live below ground, and use the passive Eloi as food. Ventilation shafts link the upper and lower worlds of the novel, just as ventilation shafts link the upper and lower levels at Uppark. The ventilation shafts which Wells saw as a boy can be viewed in the tunnels that run between the dairy and stables, restaurant and shop. There are three shafts where the corridors meet, and two more on each corridor leading away from the central meeting point. Down here you will also see a number of dark bat roosts and beer cellars, giving a sense of what may have inspired the vision of the Morlock's world. I found it moving to see the hardness of social attitudes actually represented in stone. I stood in the tunnels, looked up the shafts, and saw the light above. And in the beautiful gardens I looked down the shafts, just as the Time Traveller did in the book.

 

H.G. Wells foresaw the danger of widening the gap between masters and servants. Hopefully since his lifetime the gap has, if anything narrowed. H.G. Wells would have approved of the fact that Uppark is now owned by the National Trust and can be enjoyed by anyone.

Opening Times: Uppark House is open from the 16th March to the 30th October, Sunday to Thursday 12.30 - 4.30pm. The garden is open 11.30am - 5pm.

Directions: Uppark is five miles south east of Petersfield, West Sussex on the B2146. Click here for an interactive road and satellite map centred on Uppark.

Access: wheelchair access is good, with ramped access to the ground floor, and a lift serving the upper floor. There is an adapted toilet near the car park. The shop and tearoom are also accessible. There are some steep slopes and steps in the grounds.

Contact:

telephone: 01730 825857

web site: http://www.nationaltrust.org.uk/main/w-vh/w-visits/w-findaplace/w-uppark/