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Rye, East Sussex

Sometimes historic places are preserved because they are considered important. Frequently, however, the preservation of historic places is an unintentional result of failure and marginalisation. In Suffolk, for example, it was a collapse in the sixteenth century wool trade which led to the preservation of Lavenham. Growth and development stopped, which is why Lavenham remains such an historic town today. A similar thing happened in Rye, East Sussex. Rye was once one of the most important ports on the south coast of England. Rye had reached its position as a major port by the early fourteenth century. Edward III had declared his intention to stake his claim to the throne of France, leaving England and France locked in a long struggle. Rye just across the Channel from France was vulnerable to French raids, and was attacked in 1339. Work on defensive walls and towers began the following year. It is probable that a fortified tower known as the Ypres Tower dates from this period. Work continued on the town's defenses until the sixteenth century. But then changes in the coastline left Rye increasingly distant from the sea. Eventually Rye could no longer function as a major port. Growth and development slowed. Obviously there have been changes. The area of narrow streets beyond the Landgate was once an open square, and the name Landgate Square recalls this former appearance. Nevertheless while an ancient port such as Dover now has flyover roads, huge truck parks, and cross channel ferries, Rye is still, at least in some respects, the town it was during the Hundred Years War.

Today walking around Rye the contradictions of history are obvious. Rye might be considered important now because it is such an historic environment. But it only ended up this way because the place wasn't worth bothering with. It makes you wonder which forgotten corner of modern England will one day be full of little antique shops plying a lucrative tourist trade. Sometimes history is not kings and queens and prime ministers. Sometimes the unimportant, forgotten bits of life survive most vividly. In Remembrance of Things Passed Proust found that memories came back most clearly in small details, such as crumbs of madeline cake soaked in tea.

 

 

 

Lamb House

The writer Henry James lived in Rye at Lamb House, when he wanted some peaceful time away from his life as a famous author. Lamb House survives in West Street and is owned by the National Trust.

The history of Rye can be explored at the Rye Castle Museum, which has two sites, at Ypres Tower and in East Street.

Opening Times for Rye Museum at Ypres Tower: April to October daily 10.30am - 5pm, closed between 1pm and 2pm.

The East Street site is open 2pm - 5pm on Monday, Thursday and Friday. Weekend hours are as for Ypres Tower.

November to March, Ypres Tower is open weekends only, 10.30am - 3.30pm.

Last admission thirty minutes prior to closing.

Directions: Rye is just off the A 259 in East Sussex. Click here for an interactive map centred on Lamb House in the middle of Rye.

 

 

Access: disabled access can be difficult. Ring before you visit to check.

 

 

 

Contacts for Rye Museum:

telephone: 01797 226728

e-mail: info@ryemuseum.co.uk

 

 

 

 

©2007InfoBritain (updated 03/10)