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Rye, East Sussex

Sometimes historic places are preserved because they are considered important. Frequently, however, the preservation of historic places is the result of failure and marginalisation. In the Cotswolds the Elizabethan town of Burford was preserved when the railway line bypassed the town, leaving Burford isolated. Growth and development stopped, which is why Burford remains such an historic town today. A similar thing happened in Rye, East Sussex. Rye was once one of the most important ports on the south coast of England, until changes in the coastline of south east England left Rye increasingly distant from the sea. The sea eventually retreated to the point where Rye could no longer function as a major port. Just as in the case of Burford, growth and development slowed. Obviously there have been changes. The area of narrow streets beyond the Landgate was once an open square, and the name Landgate Square recalls this former appearance. Nevertheless while an ancient port such as Dover now has flyover roads, huge truck parks, and cross channel ferries, Rye is still, at least in some respects, the town it was during the Hundred Years War.

Rye had reached its position as a major port by the early fourteenth century. Edward the Third had declared his intention to stake his claim to the throne of France, leaving England and France locked in a long struggle. Rye just across the Channel from France was vulnerable to French raids, and was attacked in 1339. Work on defensive walls and towers began the following year. It is probable that a fortified tower known as the Ypres Tower dates from this period. Work continued on the town's defenses until the sixteenth century. By then Rye was no longer the strategically vital town it was once, and the defences were allowed to fall into decay. But this same decline also acted to help preserve the town from extensive redevelopment.

Today walking around Rye the contradictions of history are obvious. Rye might be considered important now because it is such an historic environment. But it only ended up this way because the place wasn't worth bothering with. It makes you wonder which forgotten corner of modern England will one day be full of little antique shops plying a lucrative tourist trade. Sometimes history is not kings and queens and prime ministers. Sometimes the unimportant, forgotten bits of life survive most vividly as history. In Remembrance of Things Passed Proust found that memories came back most clearly in small details, such as crumbs of madeline cake soaked in tea. It's oddly reassuring that some random moment, some ordinary place, might one day be history, while all the apparently important things will be long gone. Walking around Rye I got the feeling that forgotten people and places have their chance too.

Lamb House

The writer Henry James lived in Rye at Lamb House, when he wanted some ordinary peaceful time away from his life as a famous author. Lamb House survives in West Street and is owned by the National Trust.

The history of Rye can be explored at the Rye Castle Museum, which has two sites, at Ypres Tower and in East Street.

Opening Times for Rye Museum at Ypres Tower: April to October, Thursday to Monday, 10.30am - 5pm, closed between 1pm and 2pm. The East Street site is open 2pm - 5pm on weekdays. Weekend hours are as for Ypres Tower. November to March, Ypres Tower is open weekends only, 10.30am - 3.30pm. Last admission thirty minutes prior to closing.

Directions: Rye is just off the A 259 in East Sussex. Click here for an interactive map centred on Lamb House in the middle of Rye.

Access: disabled access can be difficult. Ring before you visit to check.

Contacts for Rye Museum:

telephone: 01797 226728