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Lindisfarne, Northumberland

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Lindisfarne, or Holy Island, is a small tidal island off the coast of Northumberland in north east England. The long religious history of Lindisfarne began in the seventh century. The island was the home of St Aidan, an Irish monk called in by King Oswald of Bernicia in 635AD to help convert his people to Christianity. Lindisfarne became a symbol for the new religion. This status was enhanced following the production of the Lindisfarne Gospels in the early 700s, an illustrated Latin copy of the gospels of Mark, Matthew, Luke, and John.

The fact that Lindisfarne is a partial island has an interesting symbolism in itself. Typically church architecture mimics castle architecture. This has been true since the earliest Neolithic and Iron Age castles mimicked the circular earth banks and ditches of religious shrines. It is as though the desire for spiritual security recalls the desire for physical security seen in castle building. An island, of course, is surrounded by its own natural protective barrier of water. In the case of Lindisfarne, a tidal island, the water is only present for part of the day, heightening its symbolic quality. In 793AD the symbolic struggle for spiritual security suddenly became very real when the first Viking raid on the British Isles took place at Lindisfarne. This raid seemingly could not have been better planned to provoke shock and outrage far beyond the physical effect of the raid itself. Churches are supposed to provide sanctuary. Richard the Third's mother hiding from her son in Westminster Abbey comes to mind. Not even Richard would openly take on the symbolic power of Westminster Abbey. A group of people tacitly agree to endow certain places with symbolic power. The shock comes when others, who do not have a part in this agreement, simply walk through the illusory defences, and start taking the silverware. This was the shock of the Viking raids.

Later in history, in the early 1570s, an actual castle was built at Lindisfarne. It was designed during a period of war with Scotland, to protect English ships anchored in the harbour. When James the Sixth of Scotland became King James the First of England, the military need for the castle disappeared, but it was kept garrisoned until the nineteenth century. The castle continued to have symbolic value, just like the "castle" of the Holy Island itself. In the early twentieth century Lindisfarne Castle was converted into a holiday home by Edwin Lutyens. Lutyens also designed Castle Drogo, that strange twentieth century castle on Dartmoor, where all the military purpose of castles disappears into romantic symbolism. Lindisfarne Castle is now described as "romantic", as though a military fortification can also be a place of love and peace. This is quite fitting for the island of Lindisfarne.

Many people continue to make pilgrimages to Lindisfarne today. The island is also popular with walkers, photographers, yachtsmen, bird watchers, fishermen, and artists. There are only about forty rooms available for guest accommodation on the island itself, and with around half a million visitors a year, booking ahead is essential. A wider range of accommodation is available on the mainland. Berwick-upon-Tweed is the nearest large town. You can use this Mainland Accommodation Near Lindisfarne link for more details.

Opening Times: Lindisfarne Castle: 15th March to 2nd November, Tuesday to Sunday. Opening times vary due to tide pattern but always open 12 midday - 3pm. The castle is also open 30th December to 2nd January 2009 Tuesday to Friday, 10am - 3pm, and 16th February to 24th February, 10am - 3pm daily.

Directions: The causeway to Lindisfarne turns off the A1 near Beal in Northumberland. The island can only be reached by a causeway which is covered by the tide twice a day. Take careful note of tide timetables. Click here for an interactive map centred on Lindisfarne.

Access: For Lindisfarne Castle - there is a drop off point, but this is a difficult property for those with mobility problems. Braille and large print guides are provided.

Contact:

web site: http://www.lindisfarne.org.uk/