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Hengistbury Head

The first truly urban settlement in Britain seems to have been at Hengistbury Head near Christchurch in Dorset. This site had been inhabited intermittently for over one hundred thousand years, with visits made initially by occasional nomads. These people may have been camping near the routes taken by migrating animals moving south from what is now Britain to the continent. The coming and going of ice ages meant that for long periods human habitation could only follow this broken pattern. From about 10000BC with a warming of the climate settlement became more permanent. At this time the English Channel had not yet flooded and Hengistbury Head lay on the edge of a large river valley. This was the valley of the river Solent, which was to become the channel of sea separating England's mainland from the Isle of Wight. Hengistbury Head reached its peak as a town when occupied by Celtic people from around 700BC. By this time the sea had advanced creating a headland, and possibilities for sea bourne trade. Hengistbury Head was Britain's first town, both in terms of its early date, and also in terms of the town's growth being due to the channel opening up and creating the island that we now call Britain. It was this new sea which provided opportunities for trade, and gave impetus to Hengistbury Head's development.

Hengistbury Head was also a manufacturing centre, since the rocks in the area were rich in iron. Many coins have been found here, including examples of what seem to be ancient forgeries, with a bronze base dipped in silver. This marks a crucial milestone in the economic history of Britain

Path through the Double Dykes

Hengistbury Head began to decline during the period of Roman occupation from 43AD to the early fifth century. Trade continued, but it is thought that the Roman occupation of trading partners such as Gaul caused the decline. Quite why Hengistbury Head was finally abandoned completely, around 450AD is not clearly understood, but for whatever reason the Head, once the greatest port in Britain, returned to wilderness.

The Head remains a beautiful wilderness which is being rapidly lost to the sea. Since its days as a great port half the Head has been lost to erosion. A visit here is all about appreciating the natural beauty of the landscape and reflecting on the passing of a once bustling centre of activity. Look out for the Double Dykes, as the most obvious feature of Hengistbury Head's former life. These are ditch and bank fortification built by Celtic people at the narrowest point of the isthmus.

If you visit Hengistbury Head bear in mind that it is a fragile landscape, which has been damaged in the past by tourists leaving the designated paths and scrambling over the thin sandy escarpments. The Head will eventually be lost to the sea, but visitors can do their bit to preserve for as long as possible this fascinating site in Britain's history.

Christchurch is a popular tourist destination,and would make a good base for exploring the whole of the World Heritage Site of England's south coast. There is also a wide range of other general tourist attractions in this area. At Hengistbury Head, for example, there is an excellent beach along the sand spit of Mudeford. My family played there, while Dad went off to look out over the Solent and imagine the herds of migrating animals that once passed through.

I stood among the bracken looking out over the sea, on the site of a settlement that defines Britain, and also recalls a time when there was no Britain at all.

Directions: Perhaps the best way to get to Hengistbury Head is to go into Christchurch, park on the Quay, and take a twenty minute boat ride down the Stour to Mudeford. The Head is then a short walk along the sandy spit past all the colourful beach huts. You will probably find boats going regularly in both directions during the summer. We took the boat on our visit. Alternatively you could follow the B3059, negotiating the rather complicated Christchurch one way system and park in the Hengistbury Head car park. From there you can walk or take the land train which runs along Hengistbury Head to Mudeford. Click here for an interactive road and satellite map centred on Hengistbury Head.

View of the Isle of Wight from Hengistbury Head