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HMS Belfast

HMS Belfast marks a change for Britain's role in the world, and a change in in the way war is fought. When HMS Belfast was built in 1939 ships like her were still symbols of power. "Gunboat diplomacy" referred to the sending of a big, impressive looking ship to a location where intimidation was required, and allowing the presence of the ship to do the work. But already in 1939 this kind of approach to war was outdated. In May 1940 Winston Churchill was touring the underground Cabinet War Rooms beneath Whitehall, and deciding that this underground bunker was the best place from which to run Britain's war. There was no impressive castle or palace for him. To an extent pre-twentieth century warfare had been reminiscent of two stags waving their antlers at each other, with symbolic power sometimes avoiding the risky business of actual combat. But by the twentieth century British soldiers were wearing khaki instead of bright red uniforms. By 1939 weapons were so powerful that entire cities could be wiped out, and by the end of the Second World War, the entire world could potentially be destroyed by nuclear weapons. The age of the stags was over, and war went increasingly underground, or in the case of the navy, increasingly underwater. At sea submarines became ever more important, although some old stags resisted this. The Royal Navy was the last major maritime power to introduce submarines, since many at the Admiralty agreed with Admiral Sir Arthur Wilson, who said in 1901 that submarine warfare was "underhand, underwater and damned un-English." If submarines ruled beneath the waves, then as the Second World War went on it also became apparent that aircraft carriers were the new power on the surface. An aircraft carrier is very big and impressive, and no doubt is sometimes used as a symbol. But in a battle an aircraft carrier endeavours to remain hundreds of miles away from its opponents, while its small aircraft attack the enemy. In modern war opposing fleets might never catch sight of each other.

Submarines came close to defeating Britain during the Battle of the Atlantic, and in December 1941 Japanese aircraft sank the battleships of the United States Pacific fleet, and the British battleships HMS Prince of Wales and HMS Repulse. The age of the big gun ship as the primary symbol of a maritime nation's power was over. Nevertheless HMS Belfast still contributed much to the war effort, escorting convoys to Russia, helping to sink the German battle cruiser Scharnhorst, and firing thousands of shells at German positions on the French coast during the D-Day invasion of Normandy. After the war she shelled coastal targets in Korea. HMS Belfast marked another ending in 1961, by providing the symbolic guard in Dar es Salaam for the final hauling down of the Union flag at the granting of independence to Tanganyika.

Looking at the Belfast today it is clear how furtive war has now become. And yet, if you stand on the ship's deck and think about it, the stags are still there, even if they have gone underground. The idea of deterrence has been used to keep the peace in Europe since the end of the Second World War, nuclear weapons becoming the ultimate in a pair of antlers. But these antlers are strange in that they are hidden, in secret silos, and in submarines prowling beneath the sea. Not being able to see the display of the opponent, imaginations run riot, and in a sense imaginary forces now face one another in a kind of illusory battle. Recent terrorist struggles play on the same climate of fear. Standing on the solid deck of HMS Belfast you realise that no such solidity exists. The modern struggle is, in a significant sense, with our own fears. The struggle is within as well as without.

Opening Times: opening is daily, except for the period 24th - 26th December. From 1st of March - 31st October: 10am - 6pm and from 1st November - 28th February 10am - 5pm. Last admission is 45 minutes before closing.

Directions: HMS Belfast is in Morgan's Lane, off Tooley Street, London. London Bridge station is close by. After coming out of the station walk east along the Thames path on the south side of the river. Click here for an interactive map centred on HMS Belfast.

Access: wheelchair access is difficult, but modifications have made a short wheelchair tour possible. The Walrus Cafe is part of the accessible area. Guide dogs are permitted on board. Educational sessions for students with disabilities are available on request. Ring 0207 940 6323

Contact:

phone: 0207 940 6300

web site: http://hmsbelfast.iwm.org.uk/